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The History of Hydroponics
As seen in Growing Edge Magazine
Hydroponics basically means working water ("hydro" means "water" and "ponos"
means "labor"). Many different civilizations have utilized hydroponic growing
techniques throughout history. As noted in Hydroponic Food Production (Fifth
Edition, Woodbridge Press, 1997, page 23) by Howard M. Resh: "The hanging
gardens of Babylon, the floating gardens of the Aztecs of Mexico and those of
the Chinese are examples of 'Hydroponic' culture. Egyptian hieroglyphic records
dating back several hundred years B.C. describe the growing of plants in water."
Hydroponics is hardly a new method of growing plants. However, giant strides
have been made over the years in this innovative area of agriculture.
Throughout the last century, scientists and horticulturists experimented with
different methods of hydroponics. One of the potential applications of
hydroponics that drove research was for growing fresh produce in nonarable areas
of the world. It is a simple fact that some people cannot grow in the soil in
their area (if there is even any soil at all). This application of hydroponics
was used during World War II. Troops stationed on nonarable islands in the
Pacific were supplied with fresh produce grown in locally established hydroponic
systems.
Later in the century, hydroponics was integrated into the space program. As NASA
considered the practicalities of locating a society on another planet or the
Earth's moon, hydroponics easily fit into their sustainability plans. This
research is ongoing. But by the 1970s, it wasn't just scientists and analysts
who were involved in hydroponics. Traditional farmers and eager hobbyists began
to be attracted to the virtues of hydroponic growing. A few of the positive
aspects of hydroponics include:
• The ability to produce higher yields than traditional, soil-based agriculture.
• Allowing food to be grown and consumed in areas of the world that cannot
support crops in the soil.
• Eliminating the need for massive pesticide use (considering most pests live in
the soil), effectively making our air, water, soil, and food cleaner.
Commercial growers are flocking to hydroponics like never before. The ideals
surrounding these growing techniques touch on subjects that most people care
about, such as helping end world hunger and making the world cleaner. In
addition to the extensive research that is going on, everyday people from all
over the world have been building (or purchasing) their own systems to grow
great-tasting, fresh food for their family and friends. Educators are realizing
the amazing applications that hydroponics can have in the classroom. And
ambitious individuals are striving to make their dreams come true by making
their living in their backyard greenhouse, selling their produce to local
markets and restaurants.
And now that so many people from so many different walks of life are involved in
hydroponics and its associated disciplines (such as aeroponics and aquaponics),
progress is coming faster than ever before.
FAQ
What is Hydroponics?
While the true definition varies from expert to expert, hydroponics is basically
the growing of plants without soil. The word “Hydroponic” is derived from the
Greek words – “Hydro” which means water and “Ponos” which means labor. True
hydroponics is growing plants in water without any type of media e.g. NFT and
Aeroponic, however, growing plants in soilless media such as coco, perlite
rockwool etc are also classified as hydroponics.
What is pH, and how can I test for it?
pH stands for “Potential of Hydrogen” and is the symbol for the hydrogen ion
(H+) in liquids. pH has a range from 0 (acidic) -14 (alkaline), with 7 being
neutral. For hydroponics we are aiming for a pH between 5.5 to 6.2 (slightly
acidic); this is suitable for most hydroponic crops. For soil, we want the pH a
little higher but still slightly acidic; around 6.0 to 6.5. Ensuring that the pH
remains within this range will help maintain good plant health. Keeping the pH
in this range ensures that nutrients are readily available to the plant. Once
the grower goes above or below this optimal range certain nutrients start
becoming unavailable to the plant (e.g. iron deficiencies will appear at a pH of
6.5 and above).
All hydroponic growers need to test the pH of their nutrient solution for
successful growing. The pH of a solution can be tested using a standard pH test
kit (sample vial with drops of indicator solution), litmus test strips, or a
digital pH meter. Litmus paper and standard test kits are cheap and easy to use;
however, the degree of accuracy isn't very high. Digital pH meters, although
more expensive than the alternatives, are easy to use and very accurate.
Should I top-off my reservoir with plain water or nutrient solution?
In the summer or in hot grow rooms, plants, in general, will take up more water
than nutrients, thus causing the nutrient solution to become more salty. In the
winter time or in cooler grow rooms, the opposite will occur. Nutrient uptake
will also be determined by the type of crop being grown e.g., tomatoes are
heavier feeders than lettuce. It is extremely important that the grower has both
a TDS meter and a pH meter and that regular testing on the nutrient solution is
carried out. If the grower notices after a few days that the ppm level in the
reservoir is high and the water level has decreased than the grower should top
up their reservoir with either plain water or a weak nutrient solution until the
optimum ppm level is reached. If the grower has noticed a drop in ppm levels
then a full strength nutrient solution should be used to top off the reservoir.
Another factor to consider is the source water. You will generally find that if
you are not using reverse osmosis water, you will usually have to top-off with
plain water, since tap water has a lot of sodium and minerals that increase the
ppm levels. Here is an ideal scenario: Purchase a Reverse Osmosis System, Auto
Shut-off Kit and some R.O. Tubing, which can be found in the Water Treatment
section of our website, and a ¼” Grommet and a ¼” Float Valve, which can be
found in the Plumbing section. Also purchase a Rubbermaid trash can and a couple
of cinder blocks from your local hardware store. Hook up the R.O. system and
shut-off kit according to the instruction manuals. The float valve that comes
with the shut-off kit should be installed in the trash can, which should be
placed on the cinder blocks for elevation. Drill a hole close to the bottom of
the trash can and insert the grommet. Install the second float valve in your
reservoir, a little higher than where you want the water level to be. Then, run
a length of R.O. tubing from the grommet to the float valve. Now, turn on your
R.O. system and go spend the time you’re going to save doing something fun!
After a period of time, both the reservoir and the trash can will be full, and
the R.O. system will stop. It will only come on when the levels in either
receptacle begin to fall. Once you add nutrients and enhancers to the reservoir,
you will find that the PPM level actually drops each day as the plants take up
nutrients and the water is replenished through the float valve (this is
especially visible with healthy, actively growing plants). You will also find
that you use far less pH adjusting solutions due to the improved water quality.
You should only have to add small amounts of nutrients and pH adjusting solution
every once and a while between reservoir changes. And, you will always have
plenty of pure, fresh water available in the trash can.
What kind of maintenance is involved with a hydroponic system?
As with soil-based production, producing crops in hydroponic systems always
requires maintenance. The following list may seem like a lot of work; however,
as you become experienced most tasks and checks will only take a few minutes
each day.
Daily
* Check reservoir for water levels, pH and TDS fluctuations.
* Check grow room temperatures and humidity percentages.
* If you use CO2, the CO2 system should be checked to ensure that it is working
correctly.
* Check watering system. If a pump fails it should be replaced immediately. If
drippers are blocked they should be cleaned or replaced immediately.
* Check plants for disease and insect infestations. It is always best to stop
disease and insect outbreaks early. The longer an infestation is left the more
difficult it will be to cure, yield losses will be high and crop failures are
possible.
* Check plants for leaf discoloration and deformities that may be caused by such
problems as nutrient deficiencies or nutrient burn (over feeding), as well as
leaf curl from lights being to close.
* Crop hygiene is extremely important. Cut off and discard diseased leaves. If a
plant is badly diseased, it is always better to throw out one or two plants to
control disease outbreaks than it is to destroy a complete crop. The same
applies to insect infestations, especially spider mites.
* General maintenance - failed light bulbs, light movers, fans, loose ducting,
leaks etc. should be replaced or repaired.
Weekly
* The growing medium should be flushed once a week to stop nutrient lock up.
* Complete reservoir change should done weekly to prevent nutrient imbalances
and bacteria build-up.
* Foliar spraying for disease and insect pests should be done weekly to prevent
outbreaks.
End of each crop
* The hydroponics system should be completely sanitized at the end of each crop.
This will minimize disease carry over to the next crop.
* The grow room should be sanitized with insecticides and fungicides. Walls,
floors, ceilings and equipment should be wiped down to remove insects/eggs and
fungi spores. The cleaner the grower is in his growing room the fewer problems
he will have in the following crop.
How do I determine which system is right for me?
There are many different hydroponic systems available and it is important
that you choose a system that is not only going to meet your needs but also be
compatible with your growing area. In general, we recommend that novices choose
an Ebb and Flow or a Top Feed/Drip System. These systems are great for beginners
because they are not too complicated and they will still produce very good
results. A few examples of these are the TurboGarden Ebb and Flow, or a
Waterfarm Kit. Aeroponic and Nutrient Film Technique (NFT) Systems are usually
only recommended for intermediate and advanced growers. These systems require
much more experience and general “know how” to successfully operate. Also,
because aeroponic and NFT systems use little or no growing medium, you could be
in big trouble if a pump fails or the power goes out for a prolonged period of
time. Growing in these types of systems can be likened to driving a racecar –
you’ll get to the finish line faster than normal but if you have an accident the
consequences can be devastating.
The next factor that you will have to consider is the type of plant that you are
growing. Certain systems will be better suited for some plants more than others.
Smaller varieties of tomatoes, basil, and certain types of lettuce are very well
suited to Ebb and Flow or Drip Systems. Larger plants would work very well in
Waterfarm kits or Homegrown Hydroponics Bucket Systems. Lettuce and strawberries
grow exceptionally well in NFT systems. Lastly, aeroponic systems can be used
with most small vegetable and flower varieties.
Finally, you will want to consider what type of system is going to work best
with your growing area. You may be working with as large an area as an entire
greenhouse or as small an area as a closet. It is important to consider which
systems will best fit into your area. Just remember not to cram too many plants
into a given area. A few healthy plants will yield more than several plants that
are overcrowded. Overcrowded plants will shade each other causing them to
stretch, and the lack of airflow between the leaves will hinder CO2 movement
across the leaves. They will also be at a higher risk of being infected by molds
and mildews. You might be able to 16 heads of lettuce or basil plants in a 2’ x
4’ area, but don’t try this with something larger like tomatoes or cucumbers.
What are the advantages and disadvantages to using hydroponics and growing
indoors?
There are many advantages and disadvantages to gardening indoors using
hydroponics. Let’s start off with some of the advantages:
Bigger, Better, Faster
Growing hydroponically allows for bigger, healthier plants that usually grow
faster and produce more fruit. When growing indoors and using the proper
lighting, most plants will go from seed to flower in as little as 3 months or
less.
Harvest fresh fruit and vegetables year round
Since you are growing indoors with the aid of artificial lighting, you can
decide when to grow. You are not dependent on the seasons to decide when you can
plant and harvest.
Total Environmental Control
Too hot in your room – vent out your light. Too cold - add a heater. Too humid -
bring in some fresh air. Indoor gardening allows you to provide optimal
conditions for your plants to grow in. Being indoors also helps avoid mold,
pests and other adverse creatures.
Ease and Simplicity
Hydroponics is actually derived from Greek meaning “water” and “labor”.
Hydroponic systems do all the work for you. Simply set the timer and the system
automatically delivers water and nutrients to the plants.
How often should you change your reservoir?
We recommend that you change your reservoir once a week. This entails “dumping”
your reservoir and re-filling it with fresh water and nutrients. The reason for
this is that as the plants feed, the nutrient solution will fall out of balance.
Also, bacteria grows at a geometric rate. If you change your solution every week
you will decrease the possibility of bacteria becoming a problem. While it is
possible to go longer between changes if you are using reverse osmosis water
instead of tap water, you still have the bacteria issue to contend with, so
unless you are using something to inhibit the bacterial growth, you should still
change your reservoir weekly.
What size water pump do I need for a reservoir that hold “x” number of
gallons?
The size of your pump doesn’t depend on the size of your reservoir; rather it
depends on how far you need to pump your water and how much water you need to
pump. You want to avoid overworking your pump, so in choosing the proper pump
you will want to choose one with at least 20% more power than need. To find out
your appropriate pump size you will need to determine how much water is
necessary to fill your tray. If your tray is in the shape of a rectangle or
square then you will need to apply the following formula to determine its
volume:
Length (ft) x Width (ft) x Average Depth (ft) x 7.5 = ? US gallons
This will give you the total gallons that your tray can hold. It is a good idea
to always get a pump that is at least 20% larger than necessary to avoid
overworking it.
After you’ve determined your volume requirements you need to find out how far
“up” the water needs to be lifted in order to reach the tray. Simply measure the
distance between your pump and the entry point in your tray; most systems will
have a distance of under 3’. This vertical distance will have an adverse affect
on the pump and this affect must be accounted for. In essence, the greater the
vertical distance the water must travel, the stronger the pump needs to be. The
following chart will show you how vertical distance affects the pumps. Note the
loss of power of each pump as the vertical height increases.
What does an air stone do?
An air stone helps to provide oxygenate the nutrient solution. This oxygen is
extremely beneficial to the root zone and helps to promote fast, healthy growth
as well as prevent disease. This is one of the main reasons that plants growing
in a hydroponic system grow so much faster than plants in soil. If you are
growing in soil you can still reap some of the rewards of oxygen by simply
oxygenating your water before applying it to the soil.
What is the difference between the ½” blue and ½” black tubing?
The main difference between the ½” black and ½” blue tubing is the amount of
light that is allowed in by the tubing. The black tubing doesn’t allow any light
in. This prevents any algae growth from occurring. The blue tubing is
semi-transparent and therefore some algae growth may occur. However, since it is
semi-transparent, the grower is able to see inside of the tubing to check for
clogs or sediment accumulation. The blue tubing can also be used as a water
level indicator or “sight tube”.
Lighting
What is the difference between HPS and MH and fluorescent lights?
What kind of lighting do I need to grow plants?
There are two primary types of lighting used to grow plants. High Intensity
Discharge (HID) is by far the most common, and includes Metal Halide (MH), which
is used primarily for the vegetative stage of growth, and High Pressure Sodium
(HPS), which is used during the flowering or fruiting stage. You can find more
information on HID lighting further down in this FAQ section.
Another popular type of plant lighting is Fluorescent lighting. Fluorescent
lighting is used primarily for starting seedlings and cuttings, but T-5
fluorescent bulbs are strong enough to grow short plants from start to finish.
It is important to note that not all fluorescent lighting is the same and only
certain types should be used for growing plants. Most (if not all) standard
fluorescent tubes are fine for illuminating a garage or office, but usually lack
the spectrum and intensity needed to sustain plant growth. It should also be
noted that if you are growing houseplants that require very little light to
sustain growth, you can probably get away with some of the inferior types of
fluorescent lights. But, if you are growing plants that need plenty of natural
sunlight in order to thrive (such as vegetables and flowers), you will be
extremely unhappy with the results you get from these bulbs.
There are three types of fluorescent bulbs that are considered suitable for
plant growth: Standard tubes with enhanced spectrum (such as the Verilux),
Compact fluorescents and T-5 fluorescents.
Verilux
Verilux bulbs look similar to the bulbs you typically find in shop lights and
offices. The main difference is that, unlike standard tubes which lose their
intensity and spectrum in as little as 6 weeks, Verilux tubes retain their
properties much, much longer. They also have a spectrum that is extremely close
to natural sunlight. They can be used in any standard shop light fixture. They
should only be used for growing houseplants, orchids, or for starting seedlings
or cuttings.
Compact Fluorescents
These bulbs are available in a variety of wattages ranging from 95W up to 200W.
They produce a higher lumen output than regular fluorescents, and are available
in 6500K (daylight) for vegetative growth and 3000K (red) to enhance flowering.
Unlike regular fluorescents, compact fluorescents do not require a fixture,
since the ballast is built in to the base of the bulb. They require a socket
(the same type of socket you would use for an HID bulb) and a power cord, and
can be used with or without a reflector. Using a reflector, however, will direct
more of the light down onto the plants. Another common use for compact
fluorescents is to hang them vertically, usually without a reflector, in between
large plants to provide supplemental side lighting. Compact Fluorescents can be
used for growing houseplants, orchids, or for starting seedlings or cuttings.
For plants that do not require full sunlight, or for varieties that tend not to
stretch under weaker light, these bulbs can be used for the entire vegetative
stage, and in some cases flowering as well.
T-5 Systems
T-5’s are the best fluorescent light bulbs available. They are similar to
standard fluorescent tubes, only much smaller in diameter. They put out far more
light then standard fluorescents, and have a much better spectrum as well. T-5’s
must be used in a T-5 fixture; they will not work with standard fixtures. They
are available in different sizes and configurations, ranging from 2’ two bulb
fixtures up to 4’ eight bulb fixtures. The eight bulb fixture is approximately
equivalent to a 600W HPS lighting system. T-5 bulbs are available in 6500K
(daylight) for vegetative growth and 3000K (red) to enhance flowering. T-5
systems are excellent for starting seedlings and cuttings, and in many cases
take plants from start to finish, provided you keep the plants on the short
side.
The rest of this lighting FAQ pertains mainly to HID lighting systems.
What size (wattage) lighting system do I need?
There are two things to consider when deciding what size lighting system to use:
the actual area in which the plants will be taking up, and how tall you want
your plants to grow. 150-175 watt lights are primarily used for seedlings or
cuttings, though they can be used for growing plants to maturity if the plants
are kept short. 250 watt systems are good for areas up to 2.5' square at the
most, as long as the plants don't get taller than about 2'. 400 watt systems
cover a primary area of about 3' x 3', or up to 4' x 4' max. 600 watt systems
cover a primary area of about 4' x 4', or up to 5' x 5' max. 1000 watt systems
cover from 4' x 6' up to 5' x 7'. The taller you plan to grow your plants, the
higher the wattage needed. This is because the light intensity diminishes by 50%
for every foot you move away from the bulb. So, if your plants reach 4' tall,
then the leaves at the bottom of the plant are receiving only around 12% of the
light that the top of the plant is getting!
What are the main differences between the different brands of lighting
systems that Homegrown Hydroponics carries?
At the time of this writing, Homegrown Hydroponics is the only company that
offers growers the ability to choose the reflector you want with the ballast you
want and the bulb that you want. This enables growers to choose from literally
hundreds of different lighting configurations to ensure that you are getting
exactly what you want, without paying for something you didn't want (if only
someone had offered this when we were first starting out as growers...!).
Homegrown Hydroponics carries the following brands of lighting: Sunlight Supply,
P.L. Light Systems, Hydrofarm, EuroSystems, Gavita, and of course, Homegrown
Hydroponics We have carried many other brands over the years, but found that the
mix we now offer gives you, the grower, the most number of choices between
economy and performance, regardless of your lighting budget. We carry only name
brand lighting systems because of the fact that most, if not all store-made or
"no-name" systems lack the proper U.L. and/or C.S.A. approvals, meaning that
they have not gone through the extensive and extremely expensive testing process
necessary to ensure that they are completely safe for you to use at home or in
the greenhouse. It's just not worth taking the risk that you might return home
one day and be greeted by the fire department because someone sold you an
inferior lighting system! (In case you're wondering, Homegrown Hydroponics
lighting systems are manufactured for us by one of the largest
manufacturers/distributors of aquarium lighting in the U.S. and are U.L.
approved - we don't like to take chances either!).
The main differences between the various brands of lighting systems are found in
the reflectors and the ballasts, so rather than talking about the different
brands, let's instead talk about the differences in the components that make up
these systems.
BALLASTS:
Homegrown Hydroponics offers the following brands of ballasts: Sunlight Supply,
P.L. Light Systems, EuroSystems and Homegrown Hydroponics We now also carry
digital ballasts.
Sunlight Supply is the leading manufacturer of horticultural lighting systems in
the U.S. We are offering their five most popular ballasts:
Sun System X (EconoGro) - The EconoGro Ballast is Sunlight's economy priced
ballast, which they import from China. Although they do not manufacture the
ballast themselves, they were so impressed by the overall quality, fit and
finish of the product, not to mention the incredibly low price, they realized
that growers on a budget would appreciate having it as an option. Features
include: die cast aluminum ballast housing, louvers for cooling, rubber feet,
multi volt ballast, 8 foot grounded power cord, 15 foot detachable lamp cord and
a white powder coated finish. They are now covered by a 5 year warranty and are
available in the following wattages: MH400, MH1000, HPS400, HPS 600 and HPS
1000.
Sun System I - This is Sunlight Supply's highest quality ballast. Sun System I
ballasts include aluminum heat sync ballast enclosure, heavy-duty key-way handle
(in case you want to mount or hang them), Advance or Magnetek brand multi-volt
transformer, 8 foot grounded power cord, 15 foot detachable lamp cord, rubber
feet, high temperature capacitor (if applicable), on/off switch and technical
guide. They are covered by a full 5 year warranty and are available in just
about every wattage imaginable. All systems are UL, CUL and CSA listed. Changing
the SSI ballast from 240V to 120V has now been made easier. Simply unplug the
120V MVP power cord from the ballast and plug in the 240V MVP power cord and
you're set. The MVP power cord only makes connections with the appropriate
voltage of the power cord you select so there's no rewiring or switches to flip.
Sun System X (EconoSwitch) - The SSX EconoSwitch has all the features of the SSX,
but adds the ability to run either MH or HPS lamps from one ballast. Just flip
the exterior mounted switch to either MH or HPS, screw in the appropriate bulb
to your reflector, and you're set. It is available in 400W and 1000W versions.
Sun System VI (Switchable) - This unique ballast has all of the high-quality
features that are incorporated into SSI fixture, but adds the ability to run
either MH or HPS lamps from one ballast. Just flip the exterior mounted switch
to either MH or HPS, screw in the appropriate bulb to your reflector, and you're
set.
Homegrown Hydroponics also carries the Sun System VII (Combination Ballast) -
The Sun System VII Ballast is actually two ballasts in one. It has all of the
features that are incorporated into the SSI fixture, but adds the ability to run
both an MH and an HPS lamp at the same time from one ballast. Like the SSI, the
SSVI is Sunlight Supply’s highest quality ballast. It is available in an 800W
model (400W MH + 400W HPS) and a 1000W model (600W HPS + 400W MH).
In addition to Sunlight Supply, Homegrown Hydroponics also carries its own brand
of ballast, as well as P.L. Lighting Systems and EuroSystems.
The Homegrown Hydroponics Ballast assemblies all feature quick-disconnect
adapters and multi-tap transformers, which means that you can switch them from
110/120V to 208V, 220/240V or 277V in just minutes! The 15' heavy duty
detachable lamp cord (included) makes installation a snap (no ''hard wiring''
like many other systems). Our ballasts are made by one of the largest
manufacturers/distributors of aquarium lighting in the U.S. They feature white
powder coated sheet metal housing with LOTS of louvers on three sides for
exceptional cooling. VERY quiet and extremely reliable with a proven track
record over 12 years long! The Homegrown Hydroponics ballast is made in the U.S.
and comes with a full 5-year warranty.
The P.L. Lighting Systems ballasts also feature multi-tap transformers and
detachable lamp cords. They are very similar to the Homegrown Hydroponics
ballasts in terms of quality, with the addition of a key-way handle that makes
them very easy to mount to the wall. When purchasing a complete lighting system,
P.L. ballasts are options that are only available with P.L. reflectors; they are
not available with any other complete lighting system package. You can also
purchase P.L. ballasts by themselves.
EuroSystems ballasts are high quality ballasts that are made in Europe. The most
exciting ballast that EuroSystems offers is the Twin 600W Ballast, which is able
to operate two 600W lights from one ballast. You can read more about EuroSystems
in the EuroSystems category on our website.
The Digital Ballast represents a breakthrough in HID lighting, and offer many
benefits:
· Works with both MH and HPS bulbs
· Energy savings of up to 30%*
· Produces no heat
· No start-up spike of electricity
· Power factor (efficiency rating) is 99%
· Consistent wattage output - improves bulb life
· Components are American-made
· No stroboscopic (flickering) effect - as close to natural sunlight as you can
get
· These ballasts also have a built-in safety feature. If an open circuit exists
while trying to ignite the lamp, the ballast will stop and then attempt to
ignite the lamp again every 30 seconds for 2 minutes. The ballast will then go
into a sleep mode for 30 minutes and then repeat. This saves many dangerous and
unnecessary attempts to ignite and burn out the ballast, which could result in
safety hazards.
REFLECTORS:
The reflector is undoubtedly the single most important factor to consider when
choosing a lighting system. The reflector dictates whether the light is
concentrated on the plants, or splashed up against the walls. While some bulbs
are a little brighter than others, a quality reflector can reflect up to 50%
more light straight down onto the plants than a lower quality reflector. Here’s
a common mistake that first-time growers make. They see a reflector that is
advertised as covering up to an 8’ x 8’ area (with a 1000W bulb installed). Then
they see another reflector advertised as covering only a 4’ x 6’ area, and for
more money, too! Which would you choose? Well, consider this: Let’s say that a
1000W HPS bulb puts out 140,000 lumens (lumens is a measure of light intensity).
Now, let’s say that you have a jar containing 140,000 marbles, each marble
representing one lumen. You pour this jar into an area that measures 8’ x 8’.
You get a pretty thin layer of marbles. Now, pour this same jar into a 4’ x 6’
area, and you have a much thicker layer of marbles, right? Is it starting to
make sense? Stay away from the reflectors that throw the light all over the
place, unless you are growing houseplants! The smaller the area covered, the
brighter it will be, and the better your plants will grow and yield. Horizontal
hoods are the best choice for plants that require a lot of light, such as most
vegetables & flowers. Horizontal hoods direct the light straight down on the
plants, throwing more intense light over a smaller area. This is by far the most
popular choice among growers. Air-cooled hoods have flanges that allow you to
hook an exhaust fan to the hood to suck out the hot air generated by the bulb,
thus reducing the amount of heat in the grow room.
Homegrown Hydroponics offers the largest selection of reflectors anywhere, by
leading manufacturers such as P.L. Light Systems, Sunlight Supply, Hydrofarm,
and, last but not least, Homegrown Hydroponics.
You can find detailed information on all of the reflectors we currently carry in
the Reflectors category on our website.
BULBS:
How often do I need to replace my bulbs?
Homegrown Hydroponics recommends that HPS bulbs should be replaced at least
every 12 months (8 months or less is ideal). MH bulbs should be replaced every 9
months (6 months or less is ideal) for maximum efficiency. The use of a light
meter would be the best and most accurate way in which to measure your bulbs
output as well as to help with bulb replacement timing.
What is the difference between an MH Regular and Super Bulb and how do I know
which one I need to buy?
A Metal Halide Super Bulb has a higher lumen (light) output, and is almost
always position oriented. These bulbs have a pin sticking out of the side of the
mogul (base) where the bulb screws into the socket. These bulbs require a
position oriented socked that is designed to catch the pin so that the bulb is
rotated into the correct position, otherwise the bulb will not perform as
expected. In addition, these Super MH bulbs must be burned in a horizontal
position only. All other bulbs (non-position oriented), including the MH Regular
bulb, can be burned in either a horizontal or vertical position (i.e. they are
universal) unless otherwise noted in the individual bulb description.
GENERAL:
What is a recommend lighting schedule for Vegetation and Flowering?
For Clones/Seedlings and Vegetative Growth Homegrown Hydroponics recommends
using an 18 hours on/6 hours off lighting schedule. In order to induce your
plants to flower we recommend subjecting your plants to a 12 hours on/12 hours
off lighting schedule.
Is it OK to leave my lights on 24 hours per day?
Homegrown Hydroponics does not recommend running lights 24 hours under any
circumstances. Your plants need a time to “rest” and grow. This is achieved
during the dark period. Running your lights for 24 hour cycles may have a
detrimental affect on your lighting system and your plants, not allowing them to
develop properly. In addition, many plant species do most of their feeding
during the night, especially when daytime temperatures are high or humidity
levels are low.
How do I determine how much my electric bill will increase by using a
lighting system?
First, find out what your electricity provider is charging you per kilowatt
hour (KWH). In Los Angeles, it’s approximately $0.10/KWH, but this number will
vary from city to city. This number represents what a 1000W lighting system will
cost you per hour to run. So, if you have a 400W system, the number to use in
the following steps would be 0.4, for a 600W system it would be .06, and so on.
Next, multiply this number by the number of hours per day you plan to operate
your lighting system. This will give you the cost per day. Finally, multiply
this number by 30 to see approximately what it will cost per month.
Refer to the following example:
0.10 (KWH cost for a 1000W lighting system) x 12 (hours per day) x 30 (days per
month) = $36.00 per month
Nutrients FAQs
How do I choose which nutrient to use?
There are many brands of nutrients that are available to hydroponic growers. The
grower should first decide if they want to grow organically or conventionally.
The type of growing medium will also determine what type of nutrient a grower
should use, e.g. if coco growing medium is used then you should consider using
nutrients that are designed for coco (like Canna Coco nutrients). The crop stage
will also determine what nutrient should be used e.g. a vegetative nutrient
formula should be used when a plant is in vegetative stage (such as Super Veg A
and Super Veg B). Ultimately, the brand of nutrient which the hydroponic grower
should use is purely up to the grower to decide. And, as always, feel free to
contact our sales staff and we will be happy to make recommendations based on
our own experience and the feedback we get from our successful customers.
What is NPK, how does it affect my plants, and what combinations do I need?
N – Nitrogen
Nitrogen is a unique element, as plants are able to take up nitrogen in the form
of an anion (a negatively charged molecule) or a cation (a positively charged
molecule). Plants are able to take up nitrogen in as NO3 or Nitrates and NH4
Ammonium. Plants require or consume more nitrates than ammonia, thus its not. A
well balanced nutrient solution will have less than 10% of available nitrogen in
the form of ammonia. Nitrogen has many functions in the plant; it is found in
proteins, chlorophyll, protoplasm and plant hormones.
Source – All premixed nutrients will have adequate nitrogen levels. If a
customer wishes to give his plants extra nitrogen in the vegetative stage then
he can use Cal-Mag Plus at a rate of 1-2 teaspoons (5-10ml) per gallon. This
will supply the plant with 25 – 50ppm extra nitrogen, this will be more than
adequate. Using Cal-Mag will also supply the plant with extra Calcium, Magnesium
and Iron. If a customer wishes to use an organic source of nitrogen then they
can use Mexican Bat Guano. Note that only 1% of the 10% of nitrogen in Mexican
Bat Guano is readily available to the plant, the other 9% will slowly be
released over a few weeks as the organic nitrogen is broken down. Bat Guano
cannot be used in NFT or aeroponic systems; it will also have a limited affect
in ebb and flow and drip systems. Bat Guano is ideal for soil growers.
Deficiency – Growth is slow, sparse and spindly the older leaves turn yellow and
will eventually dry out and die. The complete leaf will turn yellow, with no
green veins.
Toxicity – The plants will produce excess foliage that will be dark green. The
plants will also be softer, disease and insect outbreaks will be severe (this
will be due to a weaker softer plant). The root system will also be
underdeveloped. High nitrogen levels can also retard flowering and fruiting,
decrease in yields as flowers don’t set and lower fruit quality. Nitrogen
deficiency and toxicity is rear and will not be a problem if growers use
premixed nutrients and follow the directions for these nutrients.
P – Phosphorus
Phosphorus is a very important nutrient for plants. It is required by seedlings,
newly rooted clones and flowering and fruiting plants. Phosphorus is essential
for the development of healthy roots, stimulation of flowering, ripening of
fruits and seed production. Phosphorus is also required for the hydrolysis of
starch to sugar and for the synthesis of starch to sugars (also known as energy
transfer).
Source – Again, premix nutrients will have adequate phosphorus for general plant
growth. Plants will need extra phosphorus when the plants begin flowering and
fruiting. This is why growers must change from a vegetative formula to a
flowering formula. The flowering formulas will have higher phosphate and
potassium levels to help stimulate flowering, fruiting and seed production. This
all culminates in higher yields and better tasting produce. Taste is increased
because of higher synthesis of starch in to plant sugars. For a customer to
really boost their yields of flowering and fruiting crops it is advisable for
them to use a blooming enhancer. Bloom Booster, Monster Bloom, KoolBloom and
PK13/14 are all products that will boost phosphorus and potassium levels. Bloom
Blaster and Monster Bloom must be applied at a rate of 1 teaspoon (5 grams) per
5 galloons of water. Kool Bloom ¼ teaspoon per gallon or 1¼ teaspoons per 5
gallons of water. PK13/14 must be applied at a rate of 1¼ teaspoons (5ml) per
gallon of water. For organic growers, in the soil, Jamaican Bat Guano can be
used at a rate of 2-3 (10-15 grams) tablespoons per gallon of water.
Deficiency – Plants are stunted and the leaves turn dark green to purplish
color. This is due to a buildup of Anthocyanin pigments. These symptoms occur in
the older leaves first. Plant maturity will also be delayed and yields will be
low. Seed production is also severely affected.
Toxicity – Phosphorus toxicity is very difficult to diagnose. Excess phosphorus
will cause deficiencies of calcium, iron, copper and zinc. This will cause
confusing signals as other minerals may be showing signs of deficiencies even
when adequate amounts of these minerals are present.
K – Potassium
Potassium is the catalyst in plants. It is important for the manufacture and
transport of plant sugars/carbohydrates, increases the chlorophyll in leaves,
regulates the opening and closing of the leaf stomata and aids in disease
resistance, water uptake and ripening process of fruits. Potassium is also found
in the juice of fruits which contributes to an increase of fruit taste and fruit
quality.
Sources – The sources of potassium are the same for Phosphorus above.
Deficiency – Symptoms occur in older leaves first with yellow blotches and in
severe cases dead spots will occur. Branches and stems will weaken and
eventually becomes brittle. Flowering and fruiting is diminished and yields are
low and poor in quality.
Toxicity – leaf margins may burn in sever cases, but often it will effect the
uptake of magnesium and magnesium deficiencies will occur.
Ca – Calcium
Calcium is as important as N, P and K. Calcium is required in the roots, stems,
leaves and fruits of plants. It is found in every cell wall and is required for
the absorption of nitrogen.
Sources – Most nutrient solutions will have adequate calcium for general plant
growth. If a customer is using RO water then they should consider using Cal-Mag
Plus. An application rate of 1-2 (5-10ml) teaspoons per gallon of water is
sufficient to rectify any deficiencies.
Deficiency – Flower bud development is retarded, thus reducing yields, fruit
size is decreased. Roots die, leaving the plant open to root rot attack. Young
leaves show symptoms before older leaves. The leaves can be deformed, and have
yellow blotches which later turns into dead spots.
Toxicity – No visual symptoms; may cause magnesium deficiency.
Mg – Magnesium
Magnesium is found in the chlorophyll molecule. If a deficiency of magnesium
occurs then magnesium is transported from the lower leaves to the new leaves.
Magnesium uptake is affected by the concentration of Potassium. If high levels
of potassium are applied then the amount of magnesium should increase e.g. at
the second week of flowering when blooming enhancers are used then Cal-Mag Plus
should be applied.
Sources – Most nutrient solutions will have adequate amounts of magnesium. If a
grower is using RO water then Cal-Mag Plus should be used.
Deficiency – Older leaves, lower half of the plants’ leaves show signs of
yellowing. The yellowing occurs between the leaf veins which remains green.
Toxicity – There are visual symptoms for magnesium toxicity.
Si – Silicon
Accumulates mostly in the epidermal cells of a plant. It is also found in other
cell walls. Silicon helps creates hardier, heavier and stronger plants. It has
also been known to increase the plants resistance to fungal attacks.
Sources – Silica Blast and Pro-Tekt (both potassium silicate) and Pyrosol are
the main sources of silicon. Growers should take care when using these products
as they will increase the pH of the nutrient solution, thus the grower will need
to add pH Down to bring the pH back to 6.
Deficiency – Deficiencies of silicon have been known to reduce yields.
Toxicity – Not known.
Why are some nutrients split into an “A” and “B” formulas?
Nutrients are split into two formulations because the phosphorus, calcium and
sulfur nutrients need to be separated from each other. If this is not done, then
the calcium and phosphorus, as well as the calcium and sulfur, in high
concentrations, will react with each other to form calcium phosphate (cement)
and calcium sulfate (gypsum). Both calcium phosphate and calcium sulfate
precipitate out of solution, forming a white precipitate (which will usually
fall to the bottom of the reservoir), and are unavailable to the plants. This
will cause phosphorus, calcium and sulfur deficiencies in the plant. Once these
nutrients are mixed together in the reservoir they are at lower concentrations
and also a pH balanced nutrient mix will prevent the three nutrients from
reacting with each other. This is another reason why balancing pH is extremely
important.
Some nutrients are one part such as FloraNova Grow and Bloom, are extremely
thick and need to be shaken well before mixing into the reservoir. If these
nutrients aren’t shaken well before use then the precipitates that have formed
at the bottom of the bottle aren’t remixed into solution. This will cause
deficiencies, slow growth and reduced yields.
Some nutrients also come in three parts. This is done with some brands of hobby
hydroponic nutrient formulas so that the grower can mix the three parts in
different ratios to create different solutions for the vegetative and bloom
stages, as well as for different types of plants, without having to switch to a
different product. Most commercial formulas, however, are two part (you’ll never
see a commercial hydroponic farm using a one or three part nutrient formula;
they are primarily for hobby growers).
What nutrients should I be using?
There are many brands of nutrients that are available to hydroponic growers. The
grower should first decide if they want to grow organically or conventionally.
The type of growing medium will also determine what type of nutrient a grower
should use e.g. if coco growing medium is used then you should consider using
nutrients that are designed for coco (like Canna Coco nutrients). The crop stage
will also determine what nutrient should be used e.g. a vegetative nutrient
formula should be used when a plant is in vegetative stage (such as Super Veg A
and Super Veg B) and a flowering nutrient such as Super Bloom A and Super Bloom
B should be used for when the plant enters flowering. Dry nutrients tend to be a
little more difficult to mix than liquid nutrients, especially if they are old,
but they are also easier to use (only one part to mix) and cost less.
Ultimately, the brand of nutrient which the hydroponic grower should use is
purely up to the grower to decide, but Homegrown Hydroponics is always available
to help you make the decision.
Can you use the same nutrients for soil and hydro?
Nutrients that are used for hydroponics can be used for soil crops. Hydroponic
nutrients are minerals which are instantly available to the plant not matter
what the growing medium. On the other hand, not all soil nutrients can be used
for hydroponics. Some chemical soil nutrients are slow release; this slow
release is in adequate for the high performance of hydroponic systems. These
types of nutrients also create sludge when mixed with water which can cause
costly blockages in hydroponic systems. Organic nutrients which are also ideal
for soil production are usually not ideal for hydroponic systems. These
nutrients need micro-organisms and time to break down and become available to
the plant. Plants don’t actually eat organic fertilizers; rather,
micro-organisms present in the growing media eat the organic material and
process it into something the plant can utilize. If you decide to use organic
nutrients in a hydroponic system, we recommend using mediums like coco coir or
Ready-Gro, which provide an excellent environment for beneficial bacteria.
How often should I feed my plants?
For soil growers, plants can be fed once every second or third watering. If
plants are fed with every watering then nutrient buildup and lockup becomes a
problem causing stunted growth, “crows foot” (curling downwards of the leaves),
leaf burn, deficiency symptoms, burnt and damaged root system and decreased
yields.
For hydroponic growers, plants can be fed with every watering. The watering
cycle will depend on plant growth stage, size, room temperature, growth medium
and hydroponic system. Small plants, such as seedlings and clones recently
transplanted and plants in early vegetative stage, growing in rockwool, will
require watering only once every 4-6 hours. As the plant grows bigger and enters
flowering and fruiting then the water requirements of a plant increases. The
watering cycle will then be every 2-4 hours. A grow room temperature of 80 – 90
°F will require more watering cycles per day than a grow room with a temperature
of 65 – 70 °F. This is due to the higher transpiration rate of plants at higher
temperatures. Hydroton Rocks and perlite require more frequent watering than
coco fiber and Ready-Gro, which requires more watering cycles than rockwool. The
watering duration for a drip system will be longer than for an ebb and flow
system. The reason for this is that the drip system will emit water at a slow
rate where as the ebb and flow system completely floods and saturates the
growing medium in a few minutes. Aeroponic systems require frequent watering
cycles; a burst of nutrient solution for a duration of 30-60 seconds is required
every 3 to 5 minutes.
Why do growers oxygenate their nutrient solution?
While the plants leaves require CO2, the plants root system needs oxygen. If the
roots are not getting enough oxygen then the plant will become stunted. The
leaves may show signs of over-watering; the root system will be poor and begin
to die. Root rot will also become a problem and the nutrient solution will begin
to have a rotting smell. Root rot pathogens thrive in anaerobic conditions
whereas beneficial organisms thrive in high oxygen conditions. Growers that
oxygenate their nutrient solution help provide dissolved oxygen for the roots
and the beneficial organisms, while suppressing root rot pathogens. As the water
temperature increases, the dissolved oxygen level decreases. It is extremely
important that growers oxygenate their nutrient solution, especially in summer.
Is it better to grow organically or conventionally?
Conventionally (as well as hydroponically) grown plants grow faster and produce
higher yields of higher quality. Some growers testify that organics produce
better tasting crops; this may be true due to various organic components that
become available to the plant during the breakdown process of organic matter.
For this to be completely true the plant requires both organic plant and animal
matter. For most organic nutrients, a breakdown process needs to occur for the
nutrients to become available to the plant. This breakdown process is preformed
by micro-organisms found in soil. These micro-organisms break down the organic
matter into nitrates, ammonium, potassium oxides etc. These are exactly the same
as what the conventional nutrients provide to the plants. The organic process
takes time and the micro-organisms also consume some of the nutrients that the
plants require. Plants grown using conventional nutrients tend to grow faster
and yield more, but it’s also easier to over-fertilize plants and salt buildup
can be a problem if you don’t leach periodically. Correcting deficiencies is
also easier with conventional nutrients since they are so readily available to
the plant. Organically-grown plants tend to grow slower and yield less, but
there is less of a problem with salt buildup and flavor can often be better than
conventionally-grown plants. Organic fertilizers may also limit the choice of
growing mediums and systems you can use. Here are some examples of conventional
(mineral) and organic nutrients that Homegrown Hydroponics supplies:
Conventional:
· Flora series
· Super Veg and Super Bloom
· Canna Series
Organic:
· Pure Blend and Pure Blend Pro
· Earth Juice
· Age Old
Organic growers also use organic sprays for controlling leaf pests and natural
predators for controlling insect pests such as white flies, aphids, spider mites
and thrips. Chemical sprays produce instant results against pests and also
provide residual coverage. Chemical sprays can cause bitter taste on fruits and
vegetables and can be a health hazard to people. The best results are gained
from a combination of both systems. Provide the plant with chemical nutrients
and enhancers and use organic pest control. This will eliminate the bitter taste
that chemical sprays can leave on the crop. Examples of organic pest control
are:
Neem Oil – Produced from the seeds of the neem tree. It is cold pressed. Neem
oil causes maturity of insect pests to be retarded, thus stopping the pests from
breeding. Neem oil will not kill insects. Application rate is 1 (5ml) teaspoon
per quart plus ½ (2.5ml) teaspoon of dishwashing liquid or wetting agent such as
Penetrator or Coco Wet.
Pest Out – Contains clove oil, garlic oil, cottonseed oil, various acids and
sugars. This product controls mites, thrips and aphids. The application rate is
3 (15ml) teaspoons per quart.
Caterpillar Killer – Contains Bacillus thuringiensis. This product controls
leaf-eating caterpillars and loopers. The application rate is 1 to 2 teaspoons
per gallon.
Insect Killing Soap – Contains potassium salts of fatty acids. This product
controls white flies, mites and aphids.
Gnatrol – Contains Bacillus thuringiensis subsp. israelensis. This product
controls fungus gnat larvae in the growing medium.
Serenade – Contains Bacillus subtilis. This product controls powdery mildew,
rust, gray mold, leaf blight and other leaf fungi. It can also be applied to the
root system to help control root rot. Application rate of 4 oz per gallon of
spray mix. Serenade is also available in a ready-to-use spray bottle.
Mildew Cure – Contains clove oil, garlic oil, cottonseed oil, various acids and
bicarbonates. This product controls powdery mildew. The Application rate is 2-3
(10 - 15 ml) teaspoons per quart.
Sulfur Burner / Vaporizor – Sulfur burners’ burn sulfur, which creates sulfur
vapor. This vapor alters the pH of the leaf surface which controls powdery
mildew and slows the breeding process of insects. Powdery mildew control is
effective as long as the sulfur remains on the leaf. Dusting the leaves will
remove the sulfur. The application of sulfur should be applied at night time
when the lights are off. The room should not be disturbed by the grower or
exhaust fans for 4 hours while the burner is operating. The grower should not
enter the room during operation.
SM-90 – Contains coriander oil, canola oil and Triethanolamine (this is a pH
buffering agent). SM-90 can be used in the root zone and as a foliar spray. Its
purpose is to control fungi. In the root zone it controls root rot pathogens and
on the leaves it will control powdery mildew. Apply 2-3 ml per gallon of
nutrient solution for the root zone and 1 part SM-90 to 5 parts water for foliar
spraying.
Hydroguard – Contains Bacillus subtillis and Bacillus amyloiquefaciens. Both
these mirco-organisms suppress the development of fungi development thus
controlling root rot pathogens in the root zone. Apply at a rate of 1-3 (5-15ml)
teaspoons per gallon of nutrient mix. For soil gardens apply every 30-90days.
For hydroponic gardens using Hydroton rock, perlite or aeroponic systems,
re-inoculation should occur every 7 days, whereas coco, Ready-Gro and rockwool
should be re-inoculated every 14 days.
Do you have to use all 3 of GH’s Flora Series at the same time?
All three parts of the GH Flora series are required to be used at the same time.
The ratios that are used of each part will change with the different growth
stages of the plant. During the vegetative stage more Flora Grow and Flora Micro
will be used than the Flora Bloom. As the plant starts flowering then all parts
will be used equally. When the plant is in full bloom and fruiting then more
Flora Bloom and Flora Micro will be used than Flora Grow. Growers using tap
water should use Flora Micro Hardwater; the regular Flora Micro is primarily for
Reverse Osmosis water or tap water with a very low TDS level.
What is the difference between an enhancer and a nutrient?
Nutrients are stand-alone, in other words plants can be grown successfully with
nutrients with out the need for enhancers. Enhancers are not stand alone.
Enhancers are used in addition to nutrients and are designed for a specific
task, e.g. bloom stimulation, root development, flavor, etc.
Examples:
Root Stimulators – Rhizotonic, Green Fuse Root, Super Nova
Growth Stimulators – Green Fuse Grow, Floralicious Grow
Flower and Fruit stimulators – Bloom Blaster, KoolBloom, PK 13/14, Monster
Bloom, Green Fuse Bloom.
Flavor – Sweet, Floralicious Bloom.
How should a grower mix nutrients?
It is important that a grower should mix their nutrients separately, e.g. first
apply part A into the reservoir and mix, and then apply required amounts of part
B to the reservoir and mix. A two or three part nutrient solution should never
be added together before being added to the reservoir (see “Why are some
nutrients split into A and B formulas”). At this point a ppm and a pH reading
should be taken. If the grower is adding enhancers then the enhancers should be
added to the reservoir separately. A ppm and pH reading should be taken after
each enhancer addition to the reservoir. Once the grower has added all the
required nutrients and enhancers then the pH of the nutrient solution must be
adjusted to 5.8 to 6.2, 6 being ideal.
What are some good enhancers for me to get started with?
Enhancers are designed for growers to be able to get the maximum performance out
of their plants. Please note that when using enhancers the pH and TDS of the
nutrient solution should be closely monitored. The pH and TDS levels should
always remain within the optimal range for each growth stage.
Rooting
Rhizotonic – enhances root growth, thus creating more feeder roots. Rhizotonic
also helps plants overcome stress such as transplant shock. For the seedling and
clone stage use 3 (15ml) teaspoons per gallon. For mid and late vegetative
stages use 1½ (7.5ml) teaspoons per gallon. From flowering till the end of
harvest use ½ (2.5ml) teaspoon per gallon.
FulMag – enhances root development and allows better nutrient absorption by the
root system. The application rate is 3 (15ml) teaspoons per gallon.
Growth
Floralicious Grow – Application rate is 1 (5ml) teaspoon per gallon from early
growth stage through to late growth.
Bloom
Bloom Blaster – This product should be used from the second week of flowering
through to the last week before harvesting. Bloom Blaster helps stimulate the
plant to produce flowers and increases fruit size and mass. The application rate
is 1 (5grams) per gallon of water.
Floralicious Bloom – This taste enhancer should be used from early flowering
until harvest. Application rate is 1 (5ml) teaspoon per gallon.
Sweet – This is also a flavor enhancing product, it can be used form early
growth through to harvesting. Sweet can be used in the place of Floralicous Grow
and Bloom.
What is the difference between SM-90 and Hydroguard?
Hydroguard contains two strains of micro-organisms, whereas SM-90 contains
organic extracts and a pH buffer. Both products target the same fungi pathogens.
The Bacillus strains in Hydroguard suppress the development of root rot
pathogens by releasing antibiotics. The oils in SM-90 create unfavorable
conditions for fungal development. These two products should not be used
together as the oils in SM-90 will suppress the activity of Bacillus.
What is the difference between B’Cuzz and Green Fuse Stimulators?
There is very little difference if any between the B’Cuzz and Green Fuse
Stimulators. They are both derived from the same organic formula and they have
the same application rates. One company came up with the original formula and
the other company acted as the bottler. Eventually, the two companies parted
ways and now we have two products. It is also rumored (and many Homegrown
Hydroponics customers claim they have noticed the difference) that the B’Cuzz
product is a diluted version of the Green Fuse product, which is why Homegrown
Hydroponics switched from carrying B’Cuzz to Green Fuse.
What is the difference between Dark Energy and Super Nova?
Dark Energy and Super Nova are two distinctly different enhancers that work
quite well together. Dark Energy is a blend of essential L-amino acids,
beneficial vitamins and bio-nutrients. Dark Energy uniquely allows faster and
greater ion penetration of the cell walls, visibly enhancing the rate of growth.
On the other hand, Super Nova is a cytokine enhancer. Cytokines aid in cell
division, the more cytokines present the greater the rate of cell division and
therefore the faster the plant grows. Dark Energy and Super Nova are a great
one-two punch. As the Dark Energy allows for greater nutrient uptake, this
increased uptake helps to feed the new cells that the Super Nova has generated.
Do I need to add any enhancers to the Flora Nova series?
Enhancers are highly recommended but not required with the Flora Nova series.
General Hydroponics recommends using their enhancers for the Flora Nova series.
Diamond Nectar – should be used all the way through the plants life.
Flora Shield – should be used all the way through the plants life.
Floralicious Grow – for early to late vegetative stages.
KoolBloom – from late flowering to harvest.
Floralicious Bloom – from early flowering through to harvest.
Other enhancers such as PK 13\14, Monster Bloom, Bloom Blaster, FulMag, Green
Fuse Grow and Bloom and Liquid Karma all can be used with the Flora Nova series.
Test Equipment FAQs
How do I calibrate my pH meter?
All pH meters need to be calibrated on a regular basis; as time passes by and
with frequent use your pH meter it will lose calibration. You will also find
that as the batteries get older your meter will loose calibration. Keeping your
meter calibrated will help keep your plants in good health and at optimal
growth.
Your method of calibration will depend on what type of meter you own. pH meters
require that you calibrate the meter with two pH solutions, pH 7 (neutral) and
pH 4 (acidic). If you use your pH meter every day it is advisable to calibrate
your meter once a week. To calibrate your meter you will need three clean
glass/plastic containers that can hold sufficient solution to immerse the pH
probe. One container will hold water for rinsing the probe, another container
for the pH 7 solution and the last container for the pH 4 solution. Before you
calibrate your meter do a visual inspection of the meter. Check for cracks on
the meter, algae or salt deposits on the probe or any matter that shouldn't be
on the probe. If there is algae or salt deposits on the probe clean it with a
moist cotton swab. Once this has been done you are ready to calibrate your pH
meter.
Hanna Checker 1 (HI98103)
1. Rinse probe in water and briefly shake off excess.
2. Switch the meter on.
3. Place probe into pH 7 solution and allow the pH reading to settle.
4. Adjust pH 7 screw on the top side of the meter until the meter reads 7.
5. Rinse probe again in water and shake.
6. Place probe into pH 4 solution and allow the pH reading to settle.
7. Adjust the pH 4/10 screw on the top side of the meter until the meter reads
4.
8. Your pH meter is now calibrated.
Hanna pHep 4 & pHep 5 (HI98127 & HI98128)
1. Rinse probe in water and briefly shake off excess.
2. Press the MODE button to turn meter on.
3. Place probe into pH 7 solution and allow the pH reading to settle.
4. Press the MODE button again to "turn the meter off" BUT keep holding the
button down until the screen goes from "OFF" to "CAL". Immediately release the
MODE button. "7" will appear on the screen and "cal" will flash on the bottom
left corner. (The meter is now calibrating pH 7).
5. Once the meter has finished calibrating for pH 7 the screen will change from
"7" to "4". At this point take the meter out of the pH 7 solution and rinse the
probe quickly in the water, briefly shake off excess, and then place it directly
into the pH 4 solution. Swirl the probe in the solution for a few seconds.
6. The screen will read "4" and "cal" will flash at the bottom left corner of
the screen. (The meter is now calibrating pH 4).
7. Once the calibration sequence has been completed the screen will flash "OK"
and go directly into reading in the pH mode.
Hanna Combo Meter (HI98129)
1. Rinse probe in water and briefly shake off excess.
2. Press the MODE button to turn the meter on.
3. If the meter is reading in EC or pH press the SET/HOLD button until the meter
is reading in pH mode.
4. Place probe into pH 7 solution and allow the pH reading to settle.
5. Press the MODE button again to "turn the meter off" BUT keep holding the
button down until the screen goes from "OFF" to "CAL". Immediately release the
MODE button. "7" will appear on the screen and "cal" will flash on the bottom
left corner. (The meter is now calibrating pH 7).
6. Once the meter has finished calibrating for pH 7 the screen will change from
"7" to "4". At this point take the meter out of the pH 7 solution and rinse the
probe quickly in the water, briefly shake off excess, and then place it directly
into the pH 4 solution. Swirl the probe in the solution for a few seconds.
7. The screen will read "4" and "cal" will flash at the bottom left corner of
the screen. (The meter is now calibrating pH 4).
8. Once the calibration sequence has been completed the screen will flash "OK"
and go directly into reading in the pH mode.
9. If by mistake you hold the MODE button down to long while trying to calibrate
and it goes into TEMP just press the MODE button until you get back to the
reading mode. If you press the SET/HOLD button while the meter is in the TEMP or
CONV modes you could alter the settings of your meter.
Hanna pH Gro’Chek (HI981408)
1. Rinse pH and grounding probes in water and briefly shake off excess.
2. Place pH and grounding probes into pH 7 solution and allow the pH reading to
settle.
3. Adjust the pH 7 screw on the face of the meter until the meter reads "7".
4. Rinse the pH and grounding probes in water and shake.
5. Place pH and grounding probe into pH 4 solution and allow the pH reading to
settle.
6. Adjust the pH 4 screw on the face of the meter until the meter reads "4".
7. The pH calibration is now complete.
Hanna Gro’Chek Portable Meter (HI9813)
1. Rinse probe in water and briefly shake off excess.
2. Switch the meter on.
3. Place probe into pH 7 solution and allow the pH reading to settle.
4. Adjust the pH dial on the face of the meter until the meter reads "7".
5. Once this has been done the calibration is complete.
Oakton pH Waterproof Tester 1 & 2
1. Rinse probe in water and briefly shake off excess.
2. Switch the meter on.
3. Place probe into pH 7 solution and allow the pH reading to settle.
4. Press the CAL button. "CA" will flash briefly and then the pH reading will
flash.
5. Press the HOLD/CON button. This will calibrate the meter to pH 7.
6. Rinse probe in water and shake.
7. Place probe into pH 4 solution and allow the pH reading to settle.
8. Press the CAL button. "CA" will flash briefly and then the pH reading will
flash.
9. Press the HOLD/CON button. This will calibrate the meter to pH 4.
10. The meter is now calibrated.
Always remember to keep the pH probe moist when not in use. It is best to use
storage solution, otherwise use pH 4 solution. Only place storage solution in
the well of the cap if you are using the Hanna Combo Meter (HI98129). It's not
good to store the EC/TDS/CF/PPM probe in a storage solution; keep it dry. Never
reuse your calibration solutions. Never pour your used calibration solutions
back into the calibration solution bottles; this will contaminate the unused
solution.
Your pH meter must be recalibrated every time you change the batteries. If the
pH meter is a waterproof meter and you change the batteries be careful not to
damage and of the O-rings or gaskets as this will allow water enter the meter
causing damage. If the O-rings are damaged or lost and water/fluids get into the
meter the warranty will become void.
How do I calibrate my TDS meter?
Basically what these meters do is measure the flow of electrical current between
the two metal posts in the probe. The more salts/nutrients that are in the
water, the higher the reading. A TDS/PPM/EC meter needs to be regularly
calibrated. If the meter is used daily then the meter should be calibrated
weekly. If the meter is used less than daily then it should be calibrated once
every two to three weeks. You don’t want to leave it much longer than this
because as the battery life decreases the meter looses its calibration. Every
time you replace the batteries on your meter or even take the batteries out of
your meter you should recalibrate. You should check the meter regularly for
cracks and salt deposits on the electrode. Always allow the calibration solution
to warm up to room temperature, especially if the solution is stored in the
refrigerator.
The calibration method of your TDS/PPM/EC meter will depend on what model you
have.
Hanna Primo TDS Tester
Please Note: This meter requires calibration solution 1382ppm.
1. Place electrode into clean water to rinse it.
2. Shake off excess water
3. Switch the meter on.
4. Place meter into calibration solution 1382ppm, ensure that the calibration
solution covers the probe between the “MIN” and “MAX” marks that is marked on
the probe.
5. Press “ON”/”OFF” button, but keep pressing the button until “CAL” appears on
the screen then release the button.
6. The meter will then flash “1382” on the screen, keep the probe in the
solution until the meter has calibrated itself (the meter will cease flashing
“1382” and will now be in the reading mode).
7. Your meter is now calibrated.
Hanna TDS Tester (DiST1 / HI98300)
8. Place electrode into clean water to rinse it.
9. Shake off excess water
10. Place meter into calibration solution (i.e. 1500ppm or 989ppm).
11. Turn the calibration screw until the meter reads the same as the calibration
solution.
12. Your meter is now calibrated.
Hanna EC/TDS/Temp Waterproof Tester (DiST5 / HI98311)
1. This meter can be calibrated using either PPM or EC. If you are using Genesis
calibration solution by Green Air to calibrate your Hanna HI98311 meter, you
will need to change the conversion factor to correctly your calibrate meter. See
“Changing the Calibration Factor for Hanna Meters” to do this correctly.
2. Place electrode into clean water to rinse it.
3. Shake off excess water.
4. Make sure that the meter is in the ppm reading mode and not in the pH or μS
(EC)
5. Place meter into calibration solution (i.e. 1500ppm (0.7 conversion factor)).
6. Press the MODE button and keep holding down the button until CAL appears on
the screen.
7. Release the MODE button
8. The meter will now display the calibration solution that is required to
calibrate the meter. “CAL” will also flash on the meter screen during
calibration. DO NOT USE ANY OTHER SOLUTION OTHER THAN WHAT IS DISPLAYED ON THE
METER SCREEN TO CALIBRATE YOUR METER.
9. Once your meter is calibrated then it will go back into ppm reading with the
solution temperature just below the ppm reading.
10. Your meter is now calibrated.
Hanna pH/EC/TDS/Temp Waterproof Tester (HI98129)
1. This meter can be calibrated using either PPM or EC. If you are using Genesis
calibration solution by Green Air to calibrate your Hanna HI98311 meter, you
will need to change the conversion factor to correctly your calibrate meter. See
“Changing the Calibration Factor for Hanna Meters” to do this correctly.
2. Place electrode into clean water to rinse it.
3. Shake off excess water.
4. Make sure that the meter is in the ppm reading mode and not in the pH or μS
(EC)
5. Place meter into calibration solution (i.e. 1500ppm (0.7 conversion factor)).
6. Press the MODE button and keep holding down the button until CAL appears on
the screen.
7. Release the MODE button
8. The meter will now display the calibration solution that is required to
calibrate the meter. “CAL” will also flash on the meter screen during
calibration. DO NOT USE ANY OTHER SOLUTION OTHER THAN WHAT IS DISPLAYED ON THE
METER SCREEN TO CALIBRATE YOUR METER.
9. Once your meter is calibrated then it will go back into ppm reading with the
solution temperature just below the ppm reading.
10. Your meter is now calibrated.
Hanna Gro'Chek Portable pH/TDS/EC Meter (HI9813-0)
1. These meters are easy to calibrate.
2. Place electrode into clean water to rinse it.
3. Shake off excess water.
4. Press the PPM button to get the meter into ppm mode.
5. Place the ppm probe into the ppm calibration solution.
6. Adjust the PPM dial until the ppm reading on the meter is the same as that
for the solution.
7. Your meter is now calibrated.
Hanna Gro'Chek Portable pH/TDS/EC/°C Meter w/Cal-Check Feature (HI9813-6)
1. These meters are easy to calibrate.
2. Place electrode into clean water to rinse it.
3. Shake off excess water.
4. Press the PPM button to get the meter into ppm mode.
5. Place the ppm probe into the ppm calibration solution.
6. Adjust the PPM dial until the ppm reading on the meter is the same as that
for the solution.
7. Your meter is now calibrated.
8. Nutra-Dip Continuous Tri Meter (pH/TDS/Temp)
9. This meter is easy to calibrate.
10. Place electrode into clean water to rinse it.
11. Shake off excess water.
12. Place the ppm probe into the ppm calibration solution.
13. Adjust the PPM adjustment screw until the ppm reading on the meter is the
same as that for the solution.
14. Your meter is now calibrated.
Oakton Waterproof TDS Tester – Low
1. The calibration screw for these meters is found next to the batteries in the
battery compartment.
2. Place electrode into clean water to rinse it.
3. Shake off excess water.
4. Place the ppm probe into the ppm calibration solution.
5. Adjust the PPM screw in the battery compartment until the ppm reading on the
meter is the same as that for the solution.
6. Your meter is now calibrated.
Changing the Calibration Factor for Hanna Meters (HI98311 and HI98129)
1. To change the conversion factor on these meters make sure the meter is
reading in ppm mode.
2. Hold down the MODE button until TEMP appears on the screen. Before TEMP
appears on the screen you will notice that CAL will appear first TEMP will
appear after this.
3. At this point if you press the hold button you will be able to change you
meter’s reading from °C to °F.
4. Press the MODE button, the conversion factor will now appear. It should read
0.5; press the hold button until it reads 0.7. This will be the correct
conversion factor for your meters if you are using the Genesis calibration
solutions.
5. Press MODE button, the Beta factor will appear. DO NOT CHANGE THIS, it should
remain at 1.9.
6. Press MODE button again until your meter returns back to the ppm reading.
7. Your Hanna meter is now ready to be calibrated using the Genesis calibration
solutions.
What is pH, why do I have to worry about it, and how do I maintain it?
pH stands for “Potential of Hydrogen” and is the symbol for the hydrogen ion
(H+) in liquids. pH has a range from 0 (acidic) – 7 (neutral) – 14 (alkaline).
For hydroponics, we are aiming for a pH between 5.5 to 6.2 (slightly acidic);
this is suitable for most hydroponic crops. Ensuring that the pH remains within
this range will help maintain good plant health. Keeping the pH in this range
ensures that nutrients are readily available to the plant. Once the grower goes
above or below this optimal range certain nutrients start becoming unavailable
to the plant (e.g. – iron deficiencies will appear at a pH of 6.5 and above). pH
is maintained by adding either pH Up or pH Down (see “What is pH Up and Down?”).
What is pH Up and Down?
pH Up is potassium hydroxide and pH Down is phosphoric acid (commercial growers
will sometimes also use Nitric acid and Sulfuric acid). Customers who use tap
water will normally need to use pH down to balance the pH of their nutrient
solution. Tap water tends to have a lot of carbonates which tends to buffer tap
water at a higher pH. Customers who use RO water will need to use pH Up as the
reverse osmosis strips the tap water of all the carbonates, thus leaving the
water with no buffering ability. The nutrients the growers use to feed their
plants is acidic, and once the grower has applied all the required nutrients and
enhancers the reservoir pH can be below 5. This is too low for plants; thus pH
Up needs to be used in order to raise the pH to 6. Customers using both pH Up
and Down should take care when using these products as both are very
concentrated. Only small amounts should be used at a time until the customer
becomes familiar with the products.
What is TDS, PPM and EC, why do I have to worry about it, and how do I
maintain it?
TDS, PPM and EC represent the amount of nutrient salts that are dissolved in
water. Pure water will have a TDS, PPM or EC reading of 0. Distilled water will
have a reading just above 0 (e.g. 4ppm or 6µS) and RO water about 5 - 30ppm.
Total Dissolved Solids is measured as PPM (Parts per Million). Electrical
Conductivity (EC) is measured in milliSiemens (mS) or microSiemens (µS),
depending on the type of meter. To find out why and how you need to maintain
these levels, see “What ppm should be given to plants”.
TDS PPM EC
Total Dissolved Solids Parts Per Million Electrical Conductivity
ppm ppm mS or µS
What PPM should be given to plants?
Different plants require different strengths of nutrient solution, e.g. lettuce
cannot be fed the same nutrient strength as tomatoes.
Plants should never be subjected to a sudden increase of more than 200ppm in the
nutrient solution from one watering to the next. The transition from one growth
stage to the next should take place over a few days. Clones and seedling should
always be fed a low ppm (nutrient strength) in the beginning. Over the next few
days the ppm’s can be increased up to 800ppm. Clones that are subjected to a ppm
strength of 800ppm straight after transplanting will go into stress and shock.
Clones and seedlings should always be kept for at least one week in the
vegetative stage before attempting to put the plants into the stress of
flowering. This gives the plant some time to acclimate to its new environment
and also gives the grower a chance to gradually increase the nutrient strength.
How do I properly store my meters?
pH Meter
Always remember to keep the pH probe moist when not in use. It is best to use pH
Electrode Storage Solution; if you have run out of storage solution you can use
pH 4 solution as an alternative. For the Hanna HI98129 black combo meter, place
storage solution in the well of the cap that the pH electrode (not the TDS
electrode) rests in. It is not advisable to store the EC/TDS/CF/PPM probe in any
storage solution.
TDS Meter
The best way to store your TDS meter is to keep it clean and dry. TDS meters do
not require any storage solutions. DO NOT store the TDS meter in distilled
water.
For long term storage, make sure that the batteries are removed from the meter
as leaking batteries will corrode the circuit board rendering the meter useless.
None of our meters’ warranty covers leaking battery damage. For long term
storage of the pH meter it is best if the probe is stored in sufficient storage
solution; if the solution evaporates then the pH probe will dry out.
How long should my meters last?
The warranty on pH and TDS Meters is one year. The warranty on pH probes is 6
months. If the pH probe is looked after as directed it can last one to two
years. TDS probes can last longer than pH. It is quite common for TDS meters to
last a number of years with good care.
How do I use a digital meter to test soil pH?
1:2 Dilution Method
1. Mix 3 oz. of soil with 6 oz. of distilled water
2. Let mixture stand for 15 to 20 minutes
3. Filter liquid into clean cup
4. Take reading
How often do I need to calibrate my pH/TDS meters?
All pH and TDS meters need to be continuously calibrated; as time passes by and
the more you use your pH meter, it will continually lose calibration. As the
meter’s batteries get older it will also lose its calibration. Keeping the meter
calibrated will help keep your plants in good health and at optimal growth. All
pH and TDS meters must be recalibrated every time you change the batteries. It
is good practice to calibrate your meters once a week, especially if the meters
are being used daily.
Propagation FAQs
How do I start my seeds?
It is always a good idea to soak seeds over night. This will make sure that the
seeds absorb enough water to germinate quickly. If seeds are left to soak for
too long they will begin to germinate; this can be dangerous for the seed as the
radical (root) can be damaged when planting the seed. If the radical is damaged
then the seed will die.
Once the seeds have soaked for 8 - 12 hours they can be planted out into either
peat pellets, rockwool cubes, rapid rooter plugs or oasis cubes. Be sure to soak
the peat pellets in water before planting the seed. This will only take a few
minutes. Rockwool needs to be pre-soaked at a pH of 5 or treated with Rockwool
Soak before planting seeds into it.
Once the seed has germinated and the cotyledons (first pair of leaves) have
emerged the seedling will require light. Fluorescent lights are the best for
this purpose. A grower can use either an Envirolite T-5 Cloning Kit, a 2’ - two
bulb T5 fluorescent fixture, a 4’ - four bulb fluorescent fixture with 6500k
bulbs or a compact fluorescent 150w or 200w daylight bulb to supply light for
the seedlings. It is not recommended that a HID light be used for young
seedlings or clones unless it is positioned high enough above the plants so as
not to dry them out.
Seeds and seedlings should only be given water until the first true leaves have
developed. Once the first true leaves have expanded out then a mild strength (¼
strength) grow nutrient solution should be given to the seedlings. Giving
seedlings too strong a nutrient will cause the seedling to go into shock, burn
the young developing roots and possibly kill the seedling. Once the grower has
started feeding his seedlings with a mild strength nutrient it is advisable the
grower use a root enhancer such as Rhizotonic or Green Fuse Root. It is also a
good idea that the grower use Hydroguard or SubCulture to protect the new
developing root system against root pathogens. This will help create a strong,
healthy seedling.
A seedling is ready to be planted out when it is 2-3 inches tall and the roots
are coming out the bottom of the rockwool cube or peat pellet. When
transplanting a seedling it is important to plant the seedling with the least
amount of stress as possible. At transplant the grower should use NutriBoost.
This product has a mixture of vitamins, hormones and auxins which help the
stressed seedling produce new roots and fine feeding root hairs. The sooner the
root system is rejuvenated the sooner the plant recovers from transplant shock.
From this point onwards the plant is in vegetative stage.
Vegetative Stage
Once the seedling has been transplanted it then enters the vegetative stage.
This stage is to ensure the development of a strong and healthy root system
while the leaf canopy begins to expand. A healthy, well developed root system is
required for fast growing, high yielding plants. Most of the plants nutrients
and water is taken up through the root system; the plant also stores sugars in
the roots. Without the support of a good root system the plant will not be able
to perform at its peak.
To create a healthy root system, a grower should ensure that the ppm levels and
the pH of the nutrient system are correctly balanced. Over-feeding by the grower
to try and push the plant or to try and get a bit extra out of the plant will
only result in a damaged root system and a stunted or slow growing plant. For
soil growers, a pH of 6.3-6.5 is ideal. The ppm of the nutrient solution should
be between 500 - 700 for early vegetative growth and 800 – 1000 for late
vegetative growth. Soil growers should also use Rooters Mycorrhizae in the
growing medium. Mycorrhiza needs to be mixed into the soil prior to planting.
Mycorrhizae fungi works well with organic nutrients, as conventional nutrients
can damage this fungi, especially if the grower tries to push his plants to a
maximum. For hydroponics growers the nutrient solution should be balanced to a
pH of between 5.8 and 6.2; pH 6 being ideal. Rooting enhancers such as
Rhizotonic or Green Fuse Root should be used through out the vegetative cycle.
Fast growing roots require phosphorus so a nutrient with good phosphate levels
should be used. Looking after the plants root system also ensures the maximum
development of the leaf canopy. A healthy disease and insect-free leaf canopy
will make maximum use of the lighting system it is growing under. For plants
that are phototropic, such as strawberries, the plant will remain in vegetative
state as long as the light duration is long days short nights e.g. 18 hours of
lighting and 6 hours of darkness. Some plants e.g. Tomatoes, will begin
flowering once they have reached a specific maturity. Tomatoes will flower after
being in the vegetative state for about two months. Plants that are phototropic
will begin flowering once the day length shortens or when switching from an
eighteen hour light cycle to a twelve hour light cycle.
How do I take clones from a plant?
1. Select a branch or stem that has at least 2 or 3 sets of leaves.
2. Locate a spot on the branch between, or next to, a set of leaf nodes where
your cut will be made (leaf nodes are where the branches come out of the stem).
Leave at least one set of nodes above the cut.
3. Make a clean, neat, 45 degree slice with a razor blade or knife. It is
important that you do not damage the branch while handling.
4. Remove the lower 1 or 2 sets of branches (stems and leaves), leaving the
upper sets of leaves to be placed above the growing medium line. Trim any
flowers or buds that remain (if necessary; refer to picture below).
5. To prevent an air bubble (embolism) from lodging in the stem where the cut
is, immediately dip the base of the cutting into a quality cloning gel, like
Olivia’s or RooTech. Place cutting into your growing medium.
6. Keep your growing medium moist and warm with bottom heat at all times for
best results. Never let your growing medium dry out.
7. Check your growing medium and transfer cuttings once roots appear or a strong
root ball is established.
BOOKS THAT WILL HELP YOU BECOME MORE SUCCESSFUL AT CLONING:
1. Gardening Indoors With Cuttings by Van Patten
2. Hydroponically Speaking - Cloning by Steven Carruthers
TIPS ON CLONING:
* The quality of your water should be considered before taking cuttings. Reverse
Osmosis or drinking water would be an excellent choice.
* The pH should be adjusted to between 5.5 and 6.2 by the time roots begin to
develop.
* It is essential that your cuttings (clones) be taken from healthy plants.
* Rockwool should be pretreated by using Rockwool Soak, or soaking overnight in
water with a pH of about 5.0.
* Be gentle when taking cuttings. They can shock easily when cut.
* Always use a sterile growing medium; be it rockwool, soil, vermiculite,
perlite, sand, etc. Never use soil from your garden.
* Always keep tools clean to avoid transmitting disease to open plant wounds.
Sterilize them before each use if possible.
* Keep your growing medium warm at all times for best results. Bottom heat (with
a heating mat) will help cuttings root faster. Bottom heat: 75-85F (24-30C).
Greenhouse/indoor temperature (air, bench level):70F (21C).
* High humidity, just until roots begin to emerge) aids in rooting your
cuttings. A plastic cover (humidity dome or tent) will increase your percentage
of roots cuttings.
* Don't forget all plants need fresh air. If your cuttings show signs of
wilting, cut some holes in your humidity dome/tent to allow air ventilation.
* Remember to keep your room temperature warm during the night or lights-out
cycle if propagating indoors. Add a space heater if necessary.
* Excessive watering will kill your cuttings. Never leave any water standing in
the tray (unless using an aeroponic cloning system). It is best to briefly water
the plants and then transfer them to a dry tray.
* To achieve a uniform cutting you may trim the leaves. Try to keep all your
cuttings around the same height. This allows each cutting to receive the same
amount of light.
* If you are using outdoor sunlight, screen your cuttings from the direct sun or
place in a shady area under a tree.
* If you are using fluorescent lighting you may (and should) place your lights
within a few inches of the tops of your plants without burning them.
* If using high intensity discharge (HID) lighting, either sodium or metal
halide, give cuttings a full 18 hours of light. A 6 hour night cycle is
recommended for optimum results.
* Due to the amount of heat HID lamps put out, keep the lights within a safe
distance above your cuttings or you will burn them.
* Once roots appear, your cuttings can take stronger, more intense light, either
HID or outdoor sunlight. Place your lights as close as possible. In other words,
the closer the lights are to your plants, the faster your plants will grow.
Transplant as soon as vigorous roots appear.
* Continue to use OLIVIA'S CLONING SOLUTION during your entire propagating
cycle, i.e. from the time you first take your cutting, until they are fully
rooted and transplanted.
FINAL NOTE:
Every plant and growing situation is different, so the length of time it takes
roots to appear will vary from a week to a month or more depending on the type
of plant (and environment).
homegrown_hydroponics2000@yahoo.com
